Garage Door Pricing

8×7 Garage Door

8×7 Garage Door — $800 to $1750

8×7 Garage Door— $800 to $1750 (including material and labor, removal, haul-away and disposal of old door(s) for “standard” installation)

Prices vary depending on insulation (yes or no, R values from 0 – 19.05). If yes, insulation type (polystyrene: Styrofoam block of varying thicknesses, or polyurethane: injected, cured foam of varying thicknesses), windows (with or without a decorative insert, or specialty glass), exterior locks with unique keys (mainly for manual  doors), finish (faux wood or custom color).

16×7 Garage Door

16×7 Garage Door — $1050 to $2500

16×7 Garage Door — $1050 to $2500 (including material and labor, removal, haul-away and disposal of old door(s) for “standard” installation)

Prices vary depending on insulation (yes or no, R values from 0 – 19.05). If yes, insulation type (polystyrene: Styrofoam block of varying thicknesses, or polyurethane: injected, cured foam of varying thicknesses), windows (with or without a decorative insert, or specialty glass), exterior locks with unique keys (mainly for manual  doors), finish (faux wood or custom color).


Spring(s) — Spring $85 to $385, labor $59 to $259

Prices vary by type (extension, torsion or torque-master) and size (which is determined primarily by the weight of the door, then size of door), but you expect to pay somewhere from $85 to $385 for the spring. This depends primarily on the weight of the door; don’t get scared by the $385, for that is NOT a common price but is a possibility for double-wide, super heavy, insulated wood doors. Then it costs around $59 to $259 for the labor (depending on the set-up of your garage and how many hindrances are present that we have to work around safely such as shelving, old car that won’t start, low-headroom, hi-lift or perfectly clear).

  • Extension Springs MUST be replaced by the pair. We cannot do just one. They operate by extending and contracting at the top of the door on the right and left, in-line with the track stretching from back to front. We do older set up also for installs with very limited headroom. Doors with broken extension springs can normally be lifted carefully as long as they are kept level.
  • Torsion Springs are a counterbalance system usually comprised of 2 springs, one lifting up and one pushing down. We can replace one spring, but both are recommended as both will more than likely have the same amount of “cycles” on them. A cycle is defined as up and down one time. Most doors come with 10K cycle springs, but we can easily upgrade to higher cycles for very popular doors. Doors with broken torsion springs cannot generally be lifted, as the unbroken spring will automatically create a down force, making the door seemingly a lot heavier than what it actually is.
  • Finally, Torque-master Systems are on Wayne Dalton doors ONLY. They are basically a torsion system, but the springs are geared up and made longer and super skinny to fit inside of an aluminum tube with no spring exposure. All of the additional hardware is attached as part of the “assembly”. They are generally the most expensive of the three styles, and not all door dealers replace them, as it is a waste of time to repair or change the inside spring. More often than not, we will recommend a “torsion conversion” which is about the same cost initially as a torque-master replacement but much less expensive to repair in the future. The homeowner will also be able to attain more quotes, as all door dealers will replace torsion springs. A door with a broken torque-master should not be operated until replaced.

Garage Door Openers

Opener — $375 to $950 (including material and labor). We are LiftMaster Dealers (Lift master, Chamberlain, and Craftsman–all the same company)

Prices vary by:

  • Style – Chain, belt or jack-shaft
  • Accoutrements selected to meet the clients demands – WiFi or app operation, remotes, keypads, back-up batteries, lights, waterproof sensors, key-fob remotes, cameras, etc.
  • Chain drive  – Good ol’ rugged and reliable, usually the “basic” quick, inexpensive unit, nothing fancy, has the shortest warranty, all accessories are compatible, overhead garage door installation
  • Belt drive – Super smooth, super quiet “whisper drive” and low vibration. Great for homes that have a room above or sharing a wall with the garage as the motor will no longer be heard inside. It has the longest warranty, all accessories compatible, overhead garage door installation. A great unit for the money.
  • Jack-shaft – Super quiet and super smooth. ONLY available for torsion spring systems. Operates by turning the torsion tube rather than lifting or pulling. This is the most expensive out of the three. It frees up ALL overhead space and is great for garages with a car-lift or really high ceiling. Side-mount operation and all accessories compatible.


Remote — $65 to $155 (including unit and programming)

Prices vary by programming type (radio frequency, dip-switch), security rating (dip-switch, rolling code, 2+, billion code), brand and age.


Cable(s) — $195 to $225 (including material and labor)

Prices vary by type (extension or torsion), only sold by the set (extension including safety cable), or pair (torsion, drum to bottom bracket)


Maintenance — $149 to $179

Price varies by the presence of an opener. Full maintenance should be done annually. It includes 25 different steps to ensure optimal performance:

  • We check the doors’ BALANCE to ensure that the spring(s) (regardless of type) are balancing and lift the door properly
  • We inspect all ROLLERS for normal signs of basic wear and tear, or for even more substantial damage, such as dents, or bent stems
  • We check over all CABLES for potentially problem causing fraying, kinking, rust, and cuts,
  • Both DRUMS are inspected thoroughly looking for cracks, worn grooves, and worn threads on set screws.
  • The SPRING(S) are inspected for proper size per the weight (IPPT) of the door, then we check for rust, corrosion, and proper tension.
  • Although not usually big problem makers we do inspect the END BEARING PLATES and CENTER
  • BEARING PLATE to ensure the “free-turning” motion of the torsion tube (for torsion spring and torque-master set ups).
  • The TORSION TUBE is inspected for possible bending and/or bowing as this will surely end in a very damaging situation if the springs are not installed on a flat, stable support.
  • We inspect all HINGES for rust, cracking, and flexibility.
  • Both BOTTOM BRACKETS are checked for security, rust, cleanliness, wear and tear, and hook integrity as these are one of the key points of safely lifting the door.
  • The TRACK system in its entirety will be inspected for dents, bends, rust, debris, etc.
  • The FLAG AND JAMB BRACKETS that attach the vertical tracks to the frame on each side of the garage door opening are checked for proper position, bending and other damage.
  • STRUTS are checked for bending, denting, and proper fastening.   If the number of struts are not correct for the size and weight of the door the appropriate recommendations will be made.
  • The ASTRAGAL/ BOTTOM SEAL is inspected as these are made of a flexible vinyl to prevent rodents, rain, snow, and wind from entering your garage.  Because of the material that they are made of over time they will start to crack and become stiff; in order to be effective, they need to be as flexible as possible.
  • All PANELS/ SECTIONS are inspected for denting, bowing, buckling, peeling, cracking, sagging, and rusting. The onsite technician will advise you of your next step as panels cannot be repaired once the safety integrity has been compromised but they can be replaced individually.
  • We make sure all REMOTES and KEYPADS are working properly.
  • Sometimes referred to as a “trolley” the CARRIAGE ASSEMBLY is checked to ensure smooth operation, sharp “teeth”, and emergency release pin functionality.
  • We check the SENSORS for alignment, wire tightness, cleanliness, and function.
  • The opener GEAR is checked for efficiency (both sprocket or worm gear types)
  • All WIRING is inspected to make sure that there are no exposed, broken or cracked wires.
  • We set the opener FORCE AND LIMITS to make sure the door goes up and down as far as it needs to and at the proper pressure.


Trim — $5.95ft (including material and labor)


Bottom Weather Seal

Bottom weather seal – $5.95ft to $11.95ft (including material and labor)

Prices vary by size and type. Flexible premium PVC, tested to remain flexible to minus 40 degrees, 3″, 4″ & 6″  Wide, round bead ends measure 3/16″ – Black, some styles also available in Gray. Choose your width and length. Designed to slide into a round channel on the bottom of the door. We also stock a smaller bead style seal common for select types of garage doors. The beads are perfectly round. Do not confuse with the similar Wayne Dalton style that is not completely round. This garage door bottom weather stripping is an exact match to Taylor brand and other garage doors. All lengths are 2″ minimum longer than length of door so they can be cut for a perfect fit. If you have a situation that requires a wider seal, or if there is a gap issue that will not be corrected with this standard weather seal, consider replacing the bottom retainer to a more standard 1/4″ T style that will allow you to use a wide variety of types and styles of weather seal. We stock many different bottom retainers and a wide variety of weather seal in the common 1/4″ style.


Threshold — $16.95ft (including material and labor)

Price varies by size; garage door threshold creates a seal that blocks out the elements by closing the gap between the door and the floor. The tight seal in conjunction with the bottom weather seal keeps the inside of your garage sealed against the outside weather, permanently affixed to the garage floor by adhesive.